I was in Rothwell yesterday, to watch the Bones getting beaten 6-3 by Potton United (they now have two points and a goal difference of minus 48).
One thing I like about Rothwell is the feeling that, at some point (perhaps the ‘sixties), it has somehow become cut off from the rest of the world – a feeling accentuated by the fact that everywhere I went yesterday they were playing ‘sixties hits – Sugar Sugar, Love Grows Where My Rosemary Goes, Band of Gold. Perhaps the ironstone buildings and the dozy, fuggy atmosphere remind me of staying with my grandparents in Kettering during the Summer holidays.
It does, of course, also have remnants of earlier and stranger selves much older than that. I have written before about the Jesus Hospital. The Parish Church has its bone crypt, or ossuary, and then there is the Market Hall. Like the nearby Triangular Lodge, this was built by Thomas ‘the Builder’ Tresham, father of the Gunpowder Plot conspirator, and was intended to embody his recusant Roman Catholic beliefs in a way that is so cryptic that it verges on the Kabbalistic. There is a building called the Nunnery, which is believed to be connected with a Priory shut down at the Reformation.
And then there is this, which for some reason, I’d never come across before. It is a Lourdes Grotto, outside St Bernadette’s Roman Catholic Church.
It is meant to be a replica of the grotto where the Virgin Mary (this figure)
appeared in a vision to Bernadette of Lourdes (the smaller kneeling figure)
Like most post-Counter Reformation Catholic iconography, it exhibits – if not quite a defiant ugliness – then a deliberate indifference to secular standards of aesthetics. It is intended to exemplify a doctrine, and all else would be a distraction.
Coming across it unexpectedly, it also seemed almost shocking in its wilful un-Englishness (not to mention – to Protestant eyes – more than vaguely pagan). It doesn’t seem to belong here at all, but in Italy, or Ireland, or France. Or perhaps the shock is in the realisation that there is nothing un-English about it. If the ghost of Thomas Tresham, or a revenant Nun or some of the older bones in the Ossuary were to chance across it one moonlit night, it would surely make them feel more, not less, at home.